Ceningan and Bali

My fourth and final field trip led me to the island of Nua Cenigan about one hour from Bali per boat. This was the one I liked most of all the ecotourism villages – simply because the attraction is related to the ocean: seaweed production. The island is small and laid-back. There are no cars, just a few motorbikes. At noon schoolchildren walk home in flocks from the village school. In the afternoon hours people sit in front of their compounds. Young men train their roosters for fights. Women play with the babies. Before sunset some of the men gather at the rickety suspension bridge connecting the island to Nusa Lembongan and exchange the latest news. People welcomed me in a friendly and relaxed way. Many were shy and seemed to be wondering about the Bule (Westerners) visiting the island since a few years.

first impression of Nusa Lembongan arriving on the shore – stand up paddle on the main beach

 

the reef between Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan with seaweed plantations

 

schoolchildren flocking the small roads of Nusa Ceningan for lunch at home

Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan are so much quieter than Bali. More than ever before, I do meanwhile also see the less positive consequences of development at a place like Bali; the diminishing quality of it, which is due to rising congestion and consequently rising prices. Space and all other goods are becoming more and more of exclusive resources. And as one who would love to have a lasting piece of that cake, one gets the feeling for a need to hurry. Well, plans are taking shape, slowly but surely. Despite the rapid changes that the island experiences since it is back on track after the 2002 and 2005 events, Bali is still my big dream. It remains one of the few places on earth where there is an almost ideal mix of warm-hearted locals and other people of a multitude of interesting backgrounds from around the world. A place where there is much nature but also top-notch urban living-concepts. Where there are beaches, surf-breaks, deep forests, busy towns, secluded rural villages, mountains and rivers, in the centres countless restaurants and food stalls, clubs and all kind of other facilities. The people and the environment in combination result in one of the most relaxing, inspiring and energetic places I have ever experienced. For me personally, there is all that one needs for a good life. A place I want to be. Forever.

view from the main beach of Nusa Lembongan to Bali in the background with Mount Agung and its slopes dominating the island’s relief

Back from thoughts on Bali to the island of Ceningan: since the semi-arid climate at the islands limits the agricultural production on land, farmers have started to cultivate seaweed on a huge reef. The different kinds of seaweed produced are sold for purposes such as food production and cosmetics production, and make the livelihood of many of the islanders. As planting or harvesting can only be done during low tide, much of the day consists of resting. So stress, that belongs to everyday life in the Western hemisphere, and has also found its way to modernized Bali, still seems to be absent on Ceningan – one of the reasons for which my stay was so pleasant. For sure life is not easy on the small island, but still, it is a very small world. It is affected by globalization-related issues as well, but in its everyday life many of the people seem to maintain a small-world mode. From the perspective of a merciless exotist, life here resembles a dream for me, a lost world, paradise, a place of which I do not know whether to wish being born here or not. At a place like this it comes easily to take an anti-development position. I imagine how life might be as a seaweed farmer; the daily routines and rituals. I wonder how it would be. One would probably know every centimetre of the reef. Possibly one might desire the big urban world somewhere. However, the people of Ceningan have understood what development can mean. They have successfully fought their struggle for their land and prevented the island being taken over by commercial players marginalizing people and occupying this paradise...

local seaweed farmer transporting his harvest

farmers working on the seaweed farm during low-tide

another picture from the farm at low-tide

life is not easy on the island, but it is slow and laid-back, there is not the stress that a modern life creates

depending on the weather the drying process lasts for several days until the seaweed can be sold

 

a rock near the swallow-cave with Lembongan in the background and Bali farther back

 

island youth on the shaky suspension bridge connecting the two small islands

 

the famous dive spot ‘Ceningan Wall’, well known for good visibility and strong undercurrents

Apart from the interviews for my community survey I have of course used the time here to explore the tourist attractions on Ceningan. With guide Gede and the locals we have been on the reef with one of the farmer’s canoes to learn about the seaweed cultivation process. We drove by motorbike to a swallow cave to learn about the sustainable production of swallow nests and just sitting there, waiting and hours for sunset having nice chats. And we have also been to a reef near the famous dive spot of ‘Ceningan Wall’ to do snorkelling and observe the underwater world on intact coral reefs. I am becoming interested in free-diving as a sport…

the last evening spent on Ceningan donated me a stunning sunset,

people drove me to the bridge to take this photo

Back in Bali: some do home-office – I made it beach-office.

Ellen upon one of our midnight Circle-K mini-market sessions

with yoghurt for her and beef burger plus free coke for me

 

local youth with a new Honda Tiger on Bali’s highest and longest bridge near Pelaga

 

ecotourism project stakeholders during our meeting in Pelaga- constructive discussions on project advancement

the Gaya Art Center in Ubud upon the Pecha-Kucha Night organized by members of the Bali Creative Community

In Bali, after all, I have spent much time with Ellen. Actually, we did not do much special Just hanging out with old friends, staying either in her or my place or sitting on the beach for sunsets. I had some work to do and simply made the beach my office once in a while. At night we went around Seminyak area to take pictures of lamps. Or we went to Circke K to get me a one-dollar beef burger with free coke. Upon my last full day in Bali I was invited to join the meeting of the eco-tourism project, and people asked me to express my opinion with regards to product issues. On the meeting it was great to see how people came together to advance their project. They were interested in my opinion so I did a small spontaneous presentation on my ideas. Meanwhile I am finalizing a more detailed report for them. Would I live in Bali, I would love to support such and other projects more. One of the great things about my research trip is that I had opportunity to make new friends and also stay in touch with old friends. On the evening of the same day of the project meeting in Pelaga, there was a PechaKucha-Night to which I way invited by Jeff. The event held at the Gaya Art Center in Ubud was my first of this kind, and really interesting. Presentations held were on art, culture, social issues, photography, and many more. People were nice, the environment inspiring. Driving back late night through the forests and crafts villages, with gods and demons carved in stone seaming the wayside was a quite magic impression.

One of my last impressions on Bali: a night drive through forests and stone carver villages, with gods and demons seaming the wayside. The atmosphere on the island can be quite magic.